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Gulkana River Report
Based on two trips in June 2002 and August 25-28, 2005
My Gulkana pictures are here:

The Gulkana River is probably the most popular multi-day float trip in Alaska, and there are plenty of good reasons why this is so. The logistics of running it, the nature of the float, and the superb fishing are just a few of those reasons. It is also designated as a national Wild and Scenic River. Both of our trips started on Paxon Lake, down the East Fork, to where it joins with the Middle Fork, on to where it joins with the West Fork, and ending at Sourdough Campground. Some people either start at Sourdough or continue on down the lower Gulkana to where it crosses the Richardson Highway, a few days later. There are also alternative starting points to run the Middle and West Forks, but the logistics of the launch are more complex. Also the Middle Fork has some additional rapids as well as shallow water.

More info can be found at:
http://www.ak.blm.gov/gdo/gulkana1.html
http://gorp.away.com/gorp/resource/us_river/ak_gulka.htm

The first trip I did in late June was pleasant enough except for the bugs. The mosquitoes were amazingly ferocious and cover every inch of exposed skin when stopped. There were also several sections along the second and third days where the river was covered with some other type of bug hovering just about head high while sitting in a boat. Always take a good head net on this river. I kept mine on top of my hat, ready to pull down at a moments notice. Bug dope is good too, but it is the head net that will save you from insanity. The second trip, done in late August was just the opposite, a thoroughly delightful time with very few bugs. A few obnoxious flies were encountered, but I only used bug dope in the early evenings and never wore the head net. I have been in Alaska pretty much all my life, and know this is typical, but it still amazes me to see the difference between June and August.

To get to the put in from Anchorage, drive the Glenn Highway past Glennallen, turn left at the Richardson highway, continue on towards Paxon, and take the exit down to the lake. This road is not marked well, but if you get to Paxon Roadhouse, you’ve gone way too far. Drive down the gravel road until you get to the lake, offload your gear, and go park your car.

You will of course need to do something about a shuttle to make sure you have a vehicle at the end of the trip. If you have an extra vehicle, just park it at Sourdough Campground on the way up and when you’re done, drive back up to the put in and get your other vehicle(s). If all your vehicles are full of people and gear, dump your stuff at the lake, and shuttle all vehicles to the takeout and drive one back. At the end you will have to drive the shuttle again with one vehicle to fetch the car left at the top. Perhaps a better option is to get someone else to shuttle your vehicle for you. Just north of the Sourdough Campground entrance there is a small diner & gas station on the west side of the road. The ladies in there will do the shuttle for you for $35 per car (2005 price). Just give them an extra key and describe the car that you will leave at the put in. It will be waiting for you at the take out.

It’s nearly two hours to do the shuttle, and I find that if the group is large, some people can run the shuttle while others assemble boats and load gear. The shuttle is usually done before the boats are, but maybe you’re faster than I am. At the end of the trip, tearing the boats down and stashing gear is generally faster than the reverse shuttle, but it’s not a significant wait.

We brought along a small 3.5 hp outboard to pull us across the lake to the start of the river. On the last trip we had only two rafts, so this was pretty simple, but the first time we had four rafts and three kayaks so we were moving slow in a long train affair. This was still twice the speed we could row the rafts, so no one was complaining.

The East Fork starts at the southern end of the lake, where it gets shallow and grassy. It flows out through a small lagoon and finally to the river itself. The Gulkana is a brackish clear water stream for it’s entire distance, and the water temperature is quite warm for Alaska. Perhaps that is why there are so many grayling. You can also catch rainbow trout, and several specie of salmon. Check the fishing regs before you go. This stream is heavily fished so there are important limitations.

The pace picks up right after the lagoon and starts heading downstream quickly. The water is usually shallow, and if the flows are medium to low, plan on dragging boats in places. Perhaps lots of places. You should not be heavily loaded for this trip. It is way too much work if you are. You want a shallow draft boat for the East Fork section.
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